Explore It!

• Pros: Comfortable; Laces thread to toe; Partially-lined leather upper
• Cons: Not as aggressive as a higher-end shoes; Not great for crack climbing; Strong intermediate climbers will likely outgrow them quickly
• Bottom Line: The FiveTen Coyotes are a great beginner shoe that helps boost confidence – something most novice climbers need.
• MSRP: $86

FiveTen’s Web site

    While I don’t claim to be an expert rock climber – far from it actually – the FiveTen Coyote rock shoes are a great pair to try for your first time on the rock.

    The Coyotes have a partially-lined leather upper that snuggly hugs your foot, and they have laces that thread to the toe giving climbers a plethora of adjustability options.

    The partial lining means they have a liner inside part of the shoe to help prevent it from stretching while still conforming to the shape of your foot.

    I haven’t noticed any stretching in the roughly dozen times I’ve worn them. In fact, sometimes I think they’ve gotten tighter.

    An unlined shoe is said to be more flexible and more sensitive to movement, so the partial liner is a happy medium.

    Unlike some higher-end climbing shoes that have a forward camber (forward lean), the Coyotes’ heel is nearly straight up and down providing a more comfortable fit.

    I have a semi-wide foot, but I found the shoes, which I got in a full size smaller than my street shoe, to fit well throughout and suck my heel back into the heel cup.

    They have a semi-large toe box, which is great for comfort and smearing (using the balls of your feet to “smear” against the rock), but less than ideal for crack climbing when you need to jam your toes into small cracks.

    Redlands, Calif.-based FiveTen’s Stealth C4 rubber outsoles gripped well on Sedona, Ariz. sandstone and the conglomerate sandstone of Boulder, Colo.’s Flatirons.

    And, like most rock climbing shoes, if the soles get too beat up and worn down, you can resole them.

    Though not everyone has the same shaped foot, the Coyotes are a great starter shoe that is definitely worth tossing on the “to try” list for climbing shoes.

    For someone looking to get into rock climbing, finding a good pair of rock shoes is just as important as finding someone who knows how to climb.

    It’s wildly amazing how much rock shoes make a difference whether climbing at a gym, bouldering, trad or sport climbing. The specially designed soles grip the littlest holds, allow climbers to smear and make it that much easier to scale the problem in front of them.

    But there are a few general rules of thumb to keep in mind when beginner climbers seek a pair of shoes.

Stick to a budget

    First, set a budget and don’t go over it no matter what.

    It’s incredibly easy to find a great pair of first-time shoes for less than $100 – no matter what brand you seek.

    Trevor “Bubba” McConnell, an experienced mountaineer and long-time climber from Colorado Springs, Colo., said beginners won’t reap the benefits from buying a shoe out of their league.

    McConnell is a certified climbing instructor who equated buying a pair of shoes to buying a bike. Both a Huffy and a Giant will get you from point A to point B. The Giant may be a better bike, but until you’ve progressed beyond the basic skills of riding, you won’t know the difference.

    Climbing shoes are similar because until someone becomes a strong intermediate climber, the type of shoe on her foot likely won’t matter.

    McConnell proved that point when he climbed a 5.10d in Boulder, Colo. wearing his open-toed Chaco sandals. I, as a beginner climber, had rock shoes on and couldn’t make it all the way.

    So don’t be suckered into buying the latest and greatest shoe that is out of your price range.

Comfort and fit make a shoe

    As a beginner, it’s more about comfort and fit than it is about features.

    If the shoe is grossly uncomfortable, you won’t want to put it on and therefore, won’t want to climb. Keep in mind, the shoe isn’t going to feel great either.

    McConnell said if you can wear it around the house for 30 minutes and it’s still comfortable, it’s likely not the right size or style of shoe.

    As you’ll likely climb sans socks, be sure to try on your shoes sans socks as well. Your toes should be slightly bent at the end and your heel should be sucked firmly into the heel cup. Generally, start trying shoes a full size smaller than your street shoes.

    Many manufacturers also make women-specific shoes, but for most beginner women, it likely won’t make enough difference to justify the added cost. For both men and women the shoe needs to be snug, so keep trying on shoes until the right one fits. That being said, if a women’s shoe fits you better, no matter your gender, go for it.

Slippers, laces or Velcro

    Once you’ve tried on numerous shoes from numerous manufacturers (keep in mind each manufacturer makes a slightly different-fitting shoe. La Sportiva’s, for instance, tend to run narrow) take into consideration slippers versus laces versus Velcro-type shoes.

    Slippers tend to stretch faster as they don’t have anything to help tighten the leather. Laces allow you to get a more custom fit and tighten it down to the toe. Velcro-type shoes are easy to take on and off quickly.

    Most people, though, suggest laced shoes as a great all-around beginner shoe.

    Whatever shoes you pick, wear them around the house briefly before climbing with them.

    While there’s no break-in period like with hiking boots and other footwear, you should make sure it’s the right shoe before you get it on the rock. Most stores won’t take back a used shoe.

    Just be sure you’re not overly uncomfortable or you won’t want to be on the rocks at all. And then what’s the point of buying a pair of shoes?